Monday, July 15, 2024

Roots of Abundance: pear orcharding in Leavenworth faces an uncertain future

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This is the third and final article in a series about the pear industry in Leavenworth. The first two installments, with thanks to the Leavenworth Public Library, the Greater Leavenworth Museum, and the Washington Historical Society, provided a brief origin story and general history of the tree fruit business in the Upper Wenatchee Valley and an examination of the two major waves of migration for work in the orchards amid the industry’s intensive growth in the middle decades of the 20th century. This last installment examines the uncertain future of commercial orcharding in Leavenworth.

LEAVENWORTH – Most think of Leavenworth as a Bavarian-themed village nestled in scenic beauty with a lively festival and outdoor culture. Yet, for generations, another equally compelling way of life has thrived here: pear orcharding. The pear industry in the Upper Wenatchee Valley, however, faces both challenges and opportunities, driven by development pressures, changing climate conditions, labor costs, technological advancements, and evolving market demands.

Leavenworth’s history with pear orchards dates back over a century. The region’s unique microclimate, with its warm days, cool nights, and fertile soils, has long provided an ideal environment for growing premium pears. Varieties like Bartlett and Anjou have flourished, helping the local economy and shaping the community’s agricultural identity.

For many families in Leavenworth, pear orcharding is more than a livelihood, it is a way of life passed down through generations. “My grandfather began his orchards in 1929 [after moving to Leavenworth from North Dakota], and we’re still farming some of the trees he planted,” conveys Todd McDevitt, a third-generation orchardist who farms 85 acres of pears on the North Road, on which “six McDevitt families now live.”

And the orchards continue to pull people to the Upper Wenatchee Valley seeking opportunity. Kentucky native and agronomist (the science of soil management and crop production) Glade Brosi and his wife, Andrea, “farm just under fifty acres,” having purchased “the Chumstick orchard above the reindeer farm” last year and leasing three others. “I didn’t grow up on a farm,” Brosi reveals, “but my grandparents had a farm, and I’ve always been drawn to agriculture. Since moving out here over a decade ago, I knew I wanted to be an orchardist. And pears have had more steady returns [than apples or cherries], which allowed it to be something we, as smaller, family farmers, could approach economically.”

Brosi also noted that while “the established workforce infrastructure and orcharding culture is a great help to new pear farmers, significant headwinds also exist. It’s very, very difficult to buy an orchard and begin a business. Even though my wife and I have [over a dozen] years in the industry and a bunch of great connections and resources, it’s not easy. Land prices and the cost of labor and inputs versus return for product makes it almost untenable. In addition to those economics, as a farmer I work with, Troy Davis puts it: ‘the problem with farming is that we do it outside.’

“In 2023, we lost $1,000 an acre,” continued Brosi. “The cold snap this past January caused us to lose all of our crop for 2024. So, we are not going to pick any fruit this year. That’s two years in a row of poor or no return. If we have that for a third year, that’ll be all she wrote.” 

The Brosis’ start encapsulates the perils new farmers often face, which do not necessarily affect legacy orchardists the same way. As Brosi tells it: “There are some outstanding growers in our region that outperform everybody else.” Nonetheless, the future of pear orcharding in Leavenworth is not without its uncertainties for all farmers.

Development has and will significantly impact the industry. Urban expansion and zoning changes are converting agricultural land into residential and commercial properties, reducing the available land for pear orchards. As McDevitt bluntly states: “Land is worth a whole lot more with a house on it than with an orchard on it.” 

Climate change also poses a threat to traditional farming practices. Warmer temperatures, altered precipitation patterns, and increased pest pressures impact pear yields and quality.

In response to these challenges, Leavenworth’s orchardists are increasingly turning to innovation. Advances in agricultural technology may offer some solutions to enhance productivity and sustainability. “Soil sampling allows us to make more informed farming decisions,” confirms McDevitt. Another area of focus is the development of “new pear varieties that are more resistant to the industry’s biggest pest, psylla, and disease, fire blight.”

Market dynamics are also influencing the future of pear orcharding in Leavenworth. Consumers are increasingly seeking locally sourced, organic produce, and are more aware of the environmental impact of their food choices. This trend presents an opportunity for Leavenworth’s pear growers to differentiate their products and capture premium markets.

Yet, there is no denying that Leavenworth’s orchardists are looking at an uncertain future, with both McDevitt and Brosi unsure as to whether pears will still be commercially grown here twenty years from now. “It’s a difficult time for agriculture,” McDevitt averred. “No one in Washington is making money right now.” Brosi concurred: “I hope to stay in pear farming and agriculture, but it's risky, and I have an obligation to my family. If the orchards don’t make a profit, we can’t keep going.”

Fortunately for Brosi, McDevitt, and other pear farmers in the Upper Valley, the land they own is ever increasing in value as Leavenworth’s footprint expands. That said, McDevitt optimistically affirmed that “we’re going to try [to keep going] by getting resourceful and creative. We’ll definitely give it our best shot.”

Caroline Menna is an intern for Ward Media and a rising senior (Class of 2025) at Cascade High School. She will serve as Editor-in-Chief of the Cascade High School Publications Group for the 2024-2025 academic year.

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